The best surfing advice you’ve ever been given: Feel the fear and do it anyway
May26

The best surfing advice you’ve ever been given: Feel the fear and do it anyway

I seem to spend a lot of time in the water debating with myself about what on earth I’m doing. It goes something like this… “Ooh, this looks like a wave coming, oh I’m probably not going to get it, hmmm, I might, ok, yes let’s go, paddle hard Amy, oh, but it looks a bit big, and I’m a bit close to the peak, it’s going to break on my head, arrrggghhhh… [wave goes by and turns out I’m in pretty much the perfect spot] oh no, could...

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